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[Mainstreetprod]

conestoga left.jpeg (402.94 KiB) Viewed 230990 times

[Mainstreetprod]

Tried to post a photo of car stripped to bare metal, but I guess that was too much for the forum to handle...

[Mike]

Oh the nakedness of it all !!
Sorry !

Yeah, that would be interesting. A lot of high end cars get taken to car shows, in their "metal finished" state. They spend a lot of time in bare skin. The guys doing the metal finishing today are true artists.

Mike

[Mainstreetprod]

I actually thought about stripping the car, polishing it and leaving it that way. My wife vetoed the idea- "That's ugly". This is the car I showed her as an example. Good thing I didn't show her something unpolished!

[Mike]

Yeah...have to agree with your wife ! She has good taste...in cars anyway !
Imagine driving down the street on a sunny day, and having the sun bounce off the hood and into your eyes...while going down a straight road. The blindness could last for a long time.

Mike

[Mainstreetprod]

Yeah...have to agree with your wife ! She has good taste...in cars anyway !
Imagine driving down the street on a sunny day, and having the sun bounce off the hood and into your eyes...while going down a straight road. The blindness could last for a long time.

Mike

Yep, would look great at a car show but not exactly practical to drive.

FYI: I've managed to find pretty much every piece of pot metal I needed , from two different sources, for about $750. Still trying to find a reasonable front bumper, or chrome plater. May end up taking a trip to GA. Going to prime the car myself with 2K DTM and take it somewhere to spray the topcoat. Problem is I don't have the bodywork skills (I think) to do invisible bodywork. We'll see!

[Mike]

Main -

I'd use great caution about doing the primer, then, at a different time, doing the paint !

Primer is like a sponge, it soaks up water / moisture and holds onto it. To make sure that you have no "paint" problems down the road, either wait...until you are ready to paint (and don't move the car outside for any length of time, or, put the car in a booth with heat to bake off ANY moisture that may have ingrained itself into the fresh primer, and having sat...collecting moisture.

Just a thought, from past experience !

Mike

[Mainstreetprod]

The plan is to wait for a sunny 60 degree plus day, shoot the primer, then put in the garage except when blocking on sunny days outdoors. Then take the car to the painter in good weather. My garage seems to be OK from a humidity standpoint, the bare metal hood has been in there for a couple of months with no rusting.

If you have any thoughts on primering a car that is half bare metal and half 90's paint job, probably acrylic enamel. would like to hear them. I basically took everything down to the metal that was failing, such as roof, fender tops, tailgate and left solid paint there. The primer I bought (UPOL 2K DTM) can be mixed 3 different ways and used as a sealer, primer or high build primer. I decided not to start with epoxy due to the requirement to shoot the car at 75 degrees and maintain that temp for 24 hours. I joined a bodywork FB page that is supposed to be combined pro/novice but can already tell I will be savaged if I post what I'm trying to do.

[Mike]

Funny, savages in the paint department ?

As long as you don't need a high build primer for really bad areas, I'd defiantly go the "primer/sealer" way. This will help with not letting moisture into the primer so easily, and will help with hiding the paint that's left on the car.
Red's and yellows are the worst for trying to bleed through to the new paint. As I say, the "primer/sealer" will help to hide all paint colors from bleeding through to the new paint.

Sounds like fun...

Mike

[Mainstreetprod]

Mike, do you know if a sedan and wagon bumper are identical? Parts supplier who has been doing the swap meets for at least 20 years says they are and has both front and back available.